I-Moisturizer

Eyona nto ibalulekileyo "imvakalelo" yokuguga kwesikhumba iyoma, ebonakaliswa ngumswakama ophantsi kunye nokungabikho kokukwazi ukugcina umswakama. Ulusu luba lukhuni, lube rhabaxa kwaye lube namaflakes. Isixhobo esine-hygroscopic kakhulu ngenjongo yokuzalisa ukufuma kwesikhumba kunye nokuthintela ukomisa kubizwa ngokuba yi-humectant. Indlela yokuthambisa ulusu, enye kukufunxa ukufuma; enye ingumqobo womqobo (i-defense layer) ethintela ukufuma kwangaphakathi ukuba kungachithi. Ukungena komswakama walo mqobo womqobo xa umsebenzi wayo uqhelekileyo ngu-2.9g / ( m2 h-1) ± 1.9g / ( m2 h-1), kwaye xa ilahlekile ngokupheleleyo, yi-229g / ( m2 h-1) ± 81g / ( m2 h-1), ebonisa ukuba umqobo womqobo ubaluleke kakhulu.

Ngokwendlela yokuthambisa, iintlobo ezahlukeneyo zokuthambisa ezineziphumo ezilungileyo ziye zaphuhliswa. I-humectants esetyenziswa ngokuqhelekileyo ibandakanya i-polyols, i-amides, i-lactic acid kunye ne-sodium lactate, i-sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, i-glucolipid, i-collagen, i-chitin derivatives njalo njalo.

(1) Iipolyols
I-Glycerin i-viscous liquid, i-miscible emanzini, i-methanol, i-ethanol, i-n-propanol, i-isopropanol, i-n-butanol, i-isobutanol, i-sec-butanol, i-tert-amyl alcohol, i-ethylene glycol, i-propylene glycol kunye ne-Phenol kunye nezinye izinto. I-Glycerin sisixhobo esiyimfuneko sokunyakamisa ekrwada kwi-O/W-type emulsification system kwizinto zokuthambisa. Ikwayimathiriyeli ekrwada ebalulekileyo kwiloshini. Isenokusetyenziswa njenge-moisturizer ye-powder-containing pastes, enefuthe elithambileyo kunye ne-lubricating esikhumbeni. Ukongezelela, i-glycerin iphinda isetyenziswe ngokubanzi kwiimveliso ze-toothpaste powder kunye ne-hydrophilic ointments, kwaye iyinxalenye ebalulekileyo yeemveliso ze-hydrogel.
Ipropylene glycol iyilwelo olungenambala, olucacileyo, olune-viscous oluncinci, olune-hygroscopic. Ixutywe emanzini, i-acetone, i-ethyl acetate kunye ne-chloroform, kwaye inyibilika etywaleni kunye ne-ether. Ipropylene glycol isetyenziswa kakhulu kwizinto zokuthambisa. Ingasetyenziswa njenge-arhente yokumanzisa kunye ne-moisturizer kwiimveliso ezahlukeneyo ze-emulsified kunye neemveliso zolwelo. Ingasetyenziswa njengento yokuthambisa kunye ne-moisturizer ye-toothpaste xa idibene ne-glycerol kunye ne-sorbitol. Ingasetyenziswa njengomlawuli womswakama kwiimveliso zedayi zeenwele.
I-1,3-I-Butanediol i-liquid viscous engenambala kunye ne-odorless kunye nokugcinwa kakuhle komswakama, inokuthatha amanzi alingana ne-12.5% ​​(RH50%) okanye i-38.5% (RH80%) yobunzima bayo. Ingasetyenziswa ngokubanzi njenge-moisturizer kwi-lotions, i-creams, i-lotions kunye ne-toothpastes. Ukongeza, i-1,3-butanediol inefuthe le-antibacterial. I-Sorbitol ngumgubo omhlophe wekristale owenziwe ngeglucose njengento ekrwada. Inencasa eswiti kancinci. ISorbitol inyibilika ngokulula emanzini, inyibilika kancinane kwi-ethanol, i-acetic acid, i-phenol kunye ne-acetamide, kodwa ayinyibiliki kwezinye izinyibilikisi eziphilayo. ISorbitol ine-hygroscopicity elungileyo, ukhuseleko, kunye nokuzinza okuhle kweekhemikhali. Isetyenziswe ngokubanzi kwintsimi yeekhemikhali zemihla ngemihla. Ingasetyenziswa njengemathiriyeli ekrwada yee-non-ionic surfactants kwaye inokusetyenziswa njengekhrimu kwintlama yamazinyo nakwizithambiso.
I-Polyethylene glycol yipolymer enyibilikayo emanzini elungiswe ngokongezwa ngokuthe ngcembe kwe-ethylene oxide kunye namanzi okanye i-ethylene glycol. Isenokuthi inyibilikiswe kwezona zinyibiliki ziqinileyo zepolar organic kwaye inothotho lobunzima bemolekyuli obuphantsi ukuya obuphakathi. Uhlobo lwemveliso lunokusetyenziswa njengesithako se-colloidal esine-soluble yamanzi kwii-cosmetics ezahlukeneyo. I-Polyethylene glycol isetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwimizi-mveliso yokuthambisa kunye namayeza ngenxa yeempawu zayo ezintle ezifana nokunyibilika kwamanzi, ukunganyangeki komzimba, ubulali, ukuthambisa, ukufuma kwesikhumba, kunye nokuthamba. I-molecular weight low polyethylene glycol inamandla okufunxa nokugcina amanzi emoyeni, kwaye iplastiki kwaye ingasetyenziselwa njenge-humectant; njengoko ubunzima bemolekyuli bukhula, i-hygroscopicity yayo yehla kakhulu. I-molecular weight polyethylene glycol inokusetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwiikhemikhali zemihla ngemihla, amayeza, i-textile, i-papermaking kunye namanye amashishini njenge-lubricant okanye i-softener.

(2) I-lactic acid kunye ne-sodium lactate
I-lactic acid yi-asidi ephilayo ekhoyo ngokubanzi kwindalo. Yimveliso yokugqibela kwimetabolism yezinto eziphilayo ze-anaerobic. Ikhuselekile kwaye ayinayo ityhefu. I-acid ye-lactic nayo i-asidi e-soluble engundoqo yamanzi kwi-natural moisturizing factor (NMF) ye-epidermis yomntu, kwaye umxholo wayo umalunga ne-12%. I-lactic acid kunye ne-lactate ichaphazela i-tissue structure yezinto ezineprotheni, kwaye ibe ne-plasticizing ecacileyo kunye nemiphumo yokuthambisa kwiiprotheni. Ke ngoko, i-lactic acid kunye ne-sodium lactate inokwenza ulusu luthambe, ludumbe kwaye lwandise ukuqina. Yiasidi elungileyo kwizithambiso zokhathalelo lwesikhumba. Iqela le-carboxyl le-lactic acid molecule inobudlelwane obuhle beenwele kunye nolusu. I-sodium lactate yi-moisturizer esebenzayo kakhulu, kwaye isakhono sayo sokuthambisa sinamandla kunezinto zokuthambisa eziqhelekileyo ezifana ne-glycerin. I-Lactic acid kunye ne-sodium lactate zenza isisombululo se-buffer esinokulungelelanisa i-pH yolusu. Kwizinto zokuthambisa, i-lactic acid kunye ne-sodium lactate zisetyenziswa ikakhulu njengezilungisi kunye nezithambisa ulusu okanye iinwele, izithambiso zokulungisa i-pH, iikhrimu kunye nezithambiso zokhathalelo lwesikhumba, iishampu kunye nezilungiseleli zokhathalelo lweenwele kunye nezinye iimveliso zokhathalelo lweenwele. Isenokusetyenziswa kwakhona kwiimveliso zokutsheva kunye nezokucoca.

(3) I-Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate
I-sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate (i-PCA-Na ngokufutshane) yimveliso yokubola ye-fibroin aggregates kwi-epidermal granular layer. Umxholo wolusu wendalo wokunyakamisa umalunga ne-12%. Umsebenzi wayo wendalo kukwenza i-stratum corneum yolusu ithambe. Umxholo oncitshisiweyo we-sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate kwi-stratum corneum unokwenza ulusu lube lukhuni kwaye lome. I-Sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate yorhwebo ayinambala, ayinavumba, isisombululo samanzi se-alkaline esicacileyo, kwaye i-hygroscopicity yayo iphezulu kakhulu kune-glycerin, i-propylene glycol, kunye ne-sorbitol. Xa umswakama ohambelana ne-65%, i-hygroscopicity iphezulu kwi-56% emva kweentsuku ze-20, kwaye i-hygroscopicity inokufikelela kwi-60% emva kweentsuku ze-30; kwaye phantsi kweemeko ezifanayo, i-hygroscopicity ye-glycerin, i-propylene glycol, kunye ne-sorbitol yi-40% emva kweentsuku ze-30. , 30%, 10%. I-sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate isetyenziswa ikakhulu njenge-humectant kunye ne-conditioner, isetyenziswa kwi-lotion, i-shrink lotions, i-creams, i-lotions, kwaye isetyenziselwa kwintlama yamazinyo kunye ne-shampoos.

(4) Iasidi yeHyaluroni
Kwaye i-asidi ye-hyaluronic i-white amorphous solid ekhutshwe kwizicubu zezilwanyana. Yiyunithi ephindaphindayo ye-disaccharide ye-(1→3) -2-acetylamino-2deoxy-D (1→4)-OB3-D glucuronic acid Ipolymer ehlanganisiweyo inobunzima be-molecular 200,000 ukuya kwi-1 yezigidi. I-asidi ye-Hyaluroniki yindalo ye-biochemical moisturizer eneempawu ezinamandla zokuthambisa, ezikhuselekileyo kwaye ezingenayo ityhefu, ngaphandle kokucaphukisa ulusu lomntu. Iasidi yeHyaluroniki iyanyibilika emanzini kodwa ayinyibiliki kwizinyibilikisi zendalo. Ngenxa yokwelula kunye nokuvuvukala kwesakhiwo semolekyuli kwinkqubo yayo yesisombululo se-aqueous, isenayo i-viscosity ephezulu kwiindawo eziphantsi, kwaye inokubophelela inani elikhulu lamanzi, ngoko ke ineempawu ezibalaseleyo zokuthambisa, i-viscoelasticity ephezulu kunye nokugqithisa okuphezulu.
Iasidi yeHyaluroniki okwangoku luhlobo lokuthambisa olusebenza kakuhle kwizinto zokuthambisa. Kwizinto zokuthambisa, inokubonelela ngefuthe lokuthambisa eluswini, yenza ulusu lunwenwe kwaye lugudiswe, kwaye lubambezele ukuguga kolusu. Uninzi lweemveliso ze-hydrogel zenkampani ziqulethe i-hyaluronic acid okanye zisetyenziswe ngokudibeneyo kunye nayo, kwaye zifumene impendulo enhle emva kokwaziswa kwimarike.

(5) I-collagen eyenziwe nge-Hydrolyzed
I-Collagen ikwabizwa ngokuba yi-glial protein. Yiprotheni emhlophe enefiber eyenza ulusu lwesilwanyana, i-cartilage, i-tendon, amathambo, imithambo yegazi, i-cornea kunye nezinye izicubu ezidibeneyo. Ngokuqhelekileyo yenza ngaphezu kwe-30% yeprotheyini epheleleyo yezilwanyana. Kukwimeko eyomileyo yesikhumba kunye ne-dermal tissue. I-Collagen yenza i-akhawunti ukuya kuthi ga kwi-90%.
I-Collagen yinxalenye yeprotheyini esisiseko eyenza ulusu lwesilwanyana kunye nezihlunu. Inobudlelwane obuhle nolusu kunye neenwele. Ulusu kunye neenwele zinokufunxa kakuhle, zivumela ukuba zingene ngaphakathi kweenwele, njl., Ukubonisa Ubudlelwane obuhle kunye nokusebenza kakuhle. Kwaye emva kwe-hydrolysis, ikhonkco le-polypeptide ye-collagen iqulethe amaqela e-hydrophilic anjenge-amino, i-carboxyl kunye ne-hydroxyl, enokubonisa ukugcinwa kakuhle komswakama esikhumbeni. I-Hydrolyzed collagen nayo ineempembelelo zokunciphisa amabala esikhumba kunye nokuphelisa imibimbi ebangelwa yimitha ye-ultraviolet. Ke ngoko, indima ye-hydrolyzed collagen ibonakaliswa ikakhulu ekunyakaziseni, ekusondeleni, kwi-freckle whitening, anti-aging njalo njalo. Kwizicubu zezilwanyana, i-collagen yinto enganyibilikiyo emanzini, kodwa inamandla amakhulu okubopha amanzi. I-hydrolysis ye-collagen inokuqhutywa ngesenzo se-asidi, i-alkali okanye i-enzyme, kunye ne-soluble hydrolyzed collagen inokufumaneka, esetyenziswa ngokubanzi kwiimveliso zokuthambisa kunye neemveliso zobuhle bezonyango.

Ezinye iintlobo ze-humectants ziquka i-chitin kunye ne-derivatives yayo, i-glucose ester humectants, kunye ne-humectants yezityalo ezifana ne-aloe kunye ne-algae.